66 Sugar in the Milk: A Parsi Hidden Kitchen

Published: March 13, 2017, 8:15 p.m.

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Niloufer Ichaporia King lives in a house with three kitchens. She prowls through six farmer\\u2019s markets a week, at least, in search of unusual greens, roots and seeds, and traditional food plants from every immigrant culture. She is an anthropologist, a kitchen botanist, a one-of-a-kind cook, a Parsi from Bombay living in San Francisco, and the author of My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking.

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Niloufer is known for her ritual celebrations of Navroz, Parsi New Year, on the first day of Spring, when she creates an elaborate ceremonial meal based on the auspicious foods and traditions of her vanishing culture. The Parsi culture is some 3,000 years old and goes back from India to Persia. It\\u2019s estimated that there are now only 75,000 Parsis in the world. The prediction is that by 2020 the numbers will have dropped to 25,000.

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This story also features writer Bharati Mukherjee, who passed away this last year, sharing\\xa0her\\xa0memories of the forbidden Bengali kitchen of her girlhood, with its four cooks and intricate rules of food preparation. And\\xa0Harvard Professor Homi Bhabha, born in Mumbai to a Parsi family, who talks about auspicious lentils and the birth of his son.

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