Andrew Tam on Singaporean hawker centersfrom nuisance to "culinary heritage"

Published: March 24, 2019, 5:50 p.m.

Andrew Tam's research on Singapore Hawker Centers (Gastronomica Spring 2017) reworks what food reveals about multiculturalism, capital-A Authenticity, and socio-economic distinction. We discuss origins of hawkers, their change in perception (general nuisance, to emblematic of culinary heritage), and the cultural capital of knowing which stall to frequent and which to avoid.