TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently

Published: Nov. 4, 2015, 1:43 a.m.

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes 
Date: November 4th, 2015

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About Will Anglin

 

Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.

He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).

What we talked about:

  • The importance of strength training
  • Difference between strength and power
  • His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
  • Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
  • Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
  • Who should be campusing
  • Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not

Things We Mentioned

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Photo Credit

Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.

Thanks for listening!