Podcasts Sports The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

Published: Jan. 4, 2023, 11:04 p.m.

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that.

She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12\u2019s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She\u2019ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that.

While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have.

So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you\u2019ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:

  • Why technique and staying calm are so important
  • Honing the skill of resting
  • How to decrease intimidation of the grade
  • How to learn from your falling experiences
  • How to have more of a competition mindset
  • What to climb on in the gym if you\u2019re trying to send 5.12
  • A better alternative to having a perfect pyramid before entering into 5.12 territory
  • Why repeating climbs that are sort of hard for you is an important strategy

We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you\u2019re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you\u2019re just not consistently climbing 5.12\u2019s and you\u2019d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12\u2019s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you!

5.12 Breakthrough Series

Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to break into 5.12 climbing. She will do 4 90-minute zoom calls starting January 17th all about what holds people back from sending 5.12 consistently and exactly what you can do to break your 5.11 plateau.

The cost is $147 (2-payment option available), and you\u2019ll get all of the recordings of the zoom calls plus a bonus recorded coaching session with one of the participants.

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 5.12 BREAKTHROUGH SERIES \xa0 Show Links