Podcasts Sports The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

Published: April 13, 2022, 7:07 p.m.

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he\u2019s a climber who\u2019s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injuries in climbers and how that\u2019s affected his protocols for healing them. We did another interview about fingers a long time ago in\xa0Episode 116, but this is an update to that information and a deeper dive into it.

Jared\u2019s book\xa0Climb Injury-Free\xa0is on its seventh print run and is back in stock (finally).\xa0Order his book here.

This interview is super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on finger injuries, so I hope it helps you out if you have a finger injury now or if you have in the past.

More Details

  • 40% of climbing injuries are fingers!
  • Most common finger injuries and how they happen
  • Pulleys vs tendons explained
  • How to diagnose finger injuries
  • How new research has affected his protocols
  • What the popping sound is during an injury
  • How long recovery takes
  • Two ways to approach pulley sprains
  • Medications and devices to use to heal
  • What side-to-side pain means
  • Protocol timelines
  • Long-standing finger injuries
  • Using hangboard for recovery
\xa0 Other Interviews with Dr. Vagy
  1. Interview #1:\xa0We talked in general about\xa0how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them.
  2. Interview #2:\xa0He talked about how to heal\xa0shoulder impingement.
  3. Interview #3: We talked about\xa0rotator\xa0cuff\xa0injuries and\xa0neck\xa0strain.
  4. Interview #4:\xa0We discussed\xa0finger pulley sprains.
  5. Interview #5:\xa0We discussed\xa0elbow injuries.
  6. Interview # 6:\xa0We talked about\xa0hip injuries.
\xa0 Jared Vagy Professional Credentials

Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report.

He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.

\xa0 Supporting Videos from Episode

Video describing pulley injury anatomy, biomechanics and research

Video describing pulley diagnostic classifications and rehab

Diagnosis and classification

Return to climbing and hanging timelines

\xa0 \xa0 Rock Rehab Protocol Links

Dr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols\xa0using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we\u2019ve made available for $15 each) at\xa0www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab.

\xa0 Dr. Jared Vagy Links \xa0