TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing
In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients\u2019 and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning.
This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much I\u2019ve been missing in my climbing training all these years. There\u2019s SO MUCH more I could\u2019ve been doing this whole time to make improvements where hangboarding or other strength training just can\u2019t help.
We go over in depth how Alex first analyzes her clients\u2019 technique, skills, overall usage of their bodies, and tactics. She describes how she quantifies everything to make it less nebulous and more objective, and then creates drills to see objective improvements going forward.
We then talk about 7 experiences Alex has had while climbing outside that have led her to change her tactics, improve her skills, and be able to practice all of it further in the gym and outdoors.
I really hope you listen to this because whether you\u2019re a 5.8 or a 5.14 climber, you will likely learn something and maybe even be inspired like I am to start incorporating this stuff into your own routines.
\xa0
Episode Details- How training actually held her back from climbing well in the beginning
- Her repeating climbs until they feel \u201cgood\u201d has helped her
- How Alex assesses skills and technique in clients
- Key things to focus on with your feet, hips, arms, and hands
- Why practicing basics is so important
- How much of your climbing should be spent trying hard vs. gaining mastery
- How climbing in Font drastically improved her footwork and overall climbing ability
- How resting less can help you send hard routes
- How she gets herself to climb faster while still having good technique
- How being injured has actually expanded her skill set
- How to cultivate using momentum instead of raw strength/power
- Do Alex\u2019s Workshop on Skill Building
- Work with Alex as your coach
- Work on your\xa0nutrition with Neely
- Have questions? Email\xa0alex@trainingbeta.com\xa0or\xa0neely@trainingbeta.com
Please\xa0give the podcast an honest review\xa0on iTunes\xa0here\xa0to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.
\xa0 \xa0 \xa0 \xa0 \xa0 \xa0