BROADCASTS.com

About Lor Sabourin

In the episode, I talk with Lor Sabourin, who is a successful climber and a mental training coach for The Warrior\u2019s Way, where they travel to teach clinics and work one-to-one with climbers of all levels.\xa0Lor is also a graduate student on their way to becoming a counselor.

I met Lor a long time ago at the base of Dinosaur Rock in the Flatirons, where I was struck by their calm demeanor and friendly smile. I\u2019ve followed Lor on Instagram since then and have been continually impressed by their ability to talk about difficult subjects with eloquence and humility.

Lor recently became the first non-binary climber to climb a 5.14 route on traditional gear when they clipped the chains of Sedona\u2019s East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a). I wanted to talk to them about what that projecting process was like, how they improved their climbing so quickly, and what kind of response they\u2019ve gotten from the climbing community about it.

We also talked about some mental aspects of climbing, which is what they work on with people every day, and Lor\u2019s insights did not disappoint. They also shared about their experience of coming out as non-binary, and how that affected their relationships with friends and how it affected their climbing.

For some reason I feel a kinship with Lor, and I always like talking to them. In this interview we navigated difficult topics, sometimes with less panache than I would\u2019ve liked (on my part), but these are the conversations that need to happen at the moment, even if they\u2019re not easy. I VERY much appreciated Lor\u2019s willingness to be open and vulnerable in talking about personal things.

• What they did to improve climbing in such a short amount of time
• Eating disorder from the age of 7
• How their eating disorder was connected to their gender identity
• How they felt about being the \u201cfirst non-binary person to send 5.14 on gear\u201d
• How we can deal with feeling entitled in climbing and \u201cwanting something for nothing\u201d
• Dealing with \u201cbad mental days\u201d
• Building self compassion in climbing and in life
• Hot they navigate school, work, and climbing in terms of time management
• How they like van life long term
• How climbing is a mindfulness exercise

• Article on Rock & Ice about Lor
• Lor\u2019s Coaching Page on Warrior\u2019s Way
• Lor\u2019s Instagram
• Take Alex\u2019s class on\xa0Running for Climbers
• Join Alex\u2019s next\xa0Team Program

Photo of Lor by Blake McCord\xa0@blakemccordphoto