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Published: July 29, 2021, 7:09 p.m.

About Matt Pincus

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he\u2019s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017.

Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There\u2019s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases.

Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here \xa0 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that\u2019s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you\u2019re just trying to send hard stuff.

These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it.

At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on\xa0Patreon.

If you\u2019d like to get even\xa0more\xa0episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join\xa0Patreon for that exclusive content.

\xa0 Episode Details

• What is a performance phase?
• Matt\u2019s 3 tips
  • HAVE a performance phase
  • Be ready to put the work in
  • Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days

• My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn\u2019t help myself)
  • Prioritize rest on a macro and micro level
  • Fuel properly on climbing and rest days
  • Balance mental health with sending
  • Plan your goals, trips, and partners way in advance
  • Redpointing tactics

\xa0 Show Links

• Nourish: A Self-Paced Nutrition Program for Climbers
• Bouldering Program\xa0(Levels 1-3) to help you maintain strength during a performance phase
• Get more episodes every month on\xa0Patreon
• Have topics you want us to cover? Email\xa0matt@trainingbeta.com\xa0or\xa0neely@trainingbeta.com

\xa0 Please Review The Podcast\xa0on iTunes

Please\xa0give the podcast an honest review\xa0on iTunes\xa0here\xa0to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

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Photo Credit

Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus\xa0@mpincus87