Podcasts Sports The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

Published: June 9, 2021, 11:33 p.m.

About\xa0Tyler Nelson

UPDATE:\xa0Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you\u2019ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity.\xa0Learn more about the program.

In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.\xa0 By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.\xa0 He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I\u2019m going to let his\xa0website\xa0sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he\u2019s not working he\u2019s climbing or hiking outside with his family.\xa0\xa0

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic,\xa0Camp 4 Human Performance,\xa0where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad.\xa0 His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn\u2019t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions.\xa0 While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

\xa0 \xa0 \xa0 Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn\u2019t do on a hangboard
  • How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time
  • Results he\u2019s seeing with clients
  • General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger
  • When to do this during training/performance cycles
  • General hangboarding questions answered
  • What forms of training he would love to see go extinct
  • The importance of appropriate training load
  • Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue
\xa0 \xa0 \xa0 Tyler Nelson\xa0Links

Learn More from Tyler:\xa0If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers\xa0remote consultations\xa0to people all over the world. He also teaches\xa0online classes\xa0on strength training and injuries.\xa0Learn more.

\xa0 \xa0 \xa0 Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here\u2019s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone\u2026