TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training

Published: Sept. 30, 2020, 5:42 p.m.

About\xa0Tyler Nelson

Learn More from Tyler:\xa0If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers\xa0remote consultations\xa0to people all over the world. He also teaches\xa0online classes\xa0on strength training and injuries.\xa0Learn more.

In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we\u2019re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques.

Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called\xa0High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven\u2019t read it yet, and you\u2019re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I\u2019m going to let his\xa0website\xa0sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he\u2019s not working he\u2019s climbing or hiking outside with his family.\xa0\xa0

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic,\xa0Camp 4 Human Performance,\xa0where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel\u2019s first\xa0Performance Climbing Coach\xa0Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I\u2019ve done\xa04 more seminars\xa0and 6 other podcast episodes with him:

He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and\xa0training.

\xa0 \xa0 Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • What high volume power training is good for
  • How it can improve your overall power and power endurance
  • Why it\u2019s better for sport climbers than boulderers
  • Why it\u2019s important to stop training when you lose power
  • How this kind of training has helped his athletes
  • What to know about high volume power training and how to use it
  • Why campus boards need to have a way to take weight off
\xa0 \xa0 Tyler Nelson\xa0Links

Learn More from Tyler:\xa0If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers\xa0remote consultations\xa0to people all over the world. He also teaches\xa0online classes\xa0on strength training and injuries.\xa0Learn more.

\xa0 Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here\u2019s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone\u2026

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\xa0 \xa0 Please Review The Podcast\xa0on iTunes

Please\xa0give the podcast an honest review\xa0on iTunes\xa0here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

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Transcript

Coming soon.