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About\xa0The Anderson Brothers

For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular\xa0book,\xa0The Rock Climber\u2019s Training Manual, all about the training methods they\u2019ve developed over the last two decades.\xa0They\u2019re the trainers\xa0who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do \u201cBiographie\u201d (or \u201cRealization\u201d, 5.15a) and many other hard climbs. But they also have impressive climbing r\xe9sum\xe9s themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families.

Mike is 39 years old and is an\xa0Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He\u2019s\xa0an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 young sons with his wife in Colorado. He\u2019s redpointed 5.14c sport and onsighted 5.13d, and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including\xa0First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite\u2019s Half Dome.

Mark, also 39, (by the way, they\u2019re twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He\u2019s\xa0an \u201call-around\u201d climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14d.

Along with their book, Mark and Mike Anderson\xa0also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. They now have a new hangboard, the Forge, which they say\xa0is the Ferrari of hangboards. So they\u2019re kinda the shit when it comes to training.

In this second interview with\xa0both of the twins, Mark and Mike Anderson, we talk about what they've been sending since last time we talked, how their training philosophies have changed, and the academic research they've been doing on climbing training.\xa0

• Mark's send of Shadowboxing (5.14d)
• Mike's crushing spree (5.14c's and onsight of 5.13d)
• Mike's research on finger training
• How Mark trained specifically for Shadowboxing
• Linear vs Non-Linear Periodization
• How much weight to add on hangboard
• Training and sending while having a job and family

• Mark and Mike\u2019s\xa0website -\xa0www.rockclimberstrainingmanual.com
• Article by Mark about\xa0sending Shadowboxing
• New research by Mike about finger strength in climbers
• Their book,\xa0The Rock Climber\u2019s Training Manual
• Their hangboard, the Rock Prodigy Training Center by Trango
• Their new hangboard, The Forge by Trango
• Jonathan Siegrist\u2019s interview with me about training with the Anderson brothers