Published: Dec. 16, 2015, 9:02 p.m.
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About\xa0Tom Randall\n
Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their\xa0training plans and robust assessments of their\xa0clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.\xa0
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What We Talked About\n
\n- His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
\n- How he works with clients
\n- Training for crack climbing
\n- Pinky crack drills
\n- Free soloing 3,000 routes
\n- Case study of bouldering client
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Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients\nIntro to "Jack Daniels"\n\xa0\nJack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends\xa0that he has good finger strength, but\xa0never quite seems to transfer it to\xa0his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.\n\xa0\n-->\xa0
Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels\n
Related Links\n
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Training Programs for You\n
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Please Review The Podcast\xa0on iTunes!\n
\n- Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is\xa0HERE.
\n- Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes\xa0here\xa0to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
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Thanks for listening!