TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

Published: Feb. 18, 2015, 9:29 p.m.

I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!

\nAbout\xa0Adam Ondra\n

He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what\xa0his Wikipedia page\xa0has to say about him.

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He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

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As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a\xa0(5.13b) and 9b+\xa0(5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+\xa0(5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a\xa0(5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+\xa0(5.14c).[1]\xa0He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+\xa0(5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2]\xa0and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+\xa0(5.15c) routes.

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And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...

\nHere's what we talked about:\n
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  • How he\xa0trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world\xa0championships
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  • How\xa0he used to train before he started training with\xa0Patxi
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  • How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
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  • The prospect of climbing 5.15d
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  • His\xa0thoughts on diet and body weight
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\nRelated Links\n
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  • Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but\xa0www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...
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\nSupport The Podcast\n\nListen and Review on iTunes\n
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  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is\xa0HERE.
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  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes\xa0here\xa0to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
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\nMusic\n

Intro and outro song:\xa0Yesterday by Build Buildings\xa0

\nPhoto\n

Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com

\nThanks for listening!