Ep 434: The World's Foremost Authorities on Rose -- Elizabeth Gabay, Master of Wine, & Ben Bernheim, Co-Author

Published: July 18, 2022, 3:23 a.m.

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Elizabeth (Liz) Gabay, Master of Wine, is the world\'s foremost expert on ros\\xe9 and a big part of her career has been studying, writing about, and understanding ros\\xe9. Ben Bernheim, her son, is now learning from her wisdom and and is a specialist in his own right. The two of them have just completed the excellent\\xa0book \\u201cRos\\xe9s of Southern France\\u201d\\xa0(which is now available on Amazon for purchase.

Liz is largely responsible for shifting the tide on ros\\xe9 and helping people to understand that this wine is its own serious category that deserves thought, study, and consideration. In addition to the new book, Liz is the author of \\u201cRos\\xe9: Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution,\\u201d and she is also a contributor on ros\\xe9 in Decanter, The Drinks Business, The Buyer, SevenFiftyDaily, Meiningers, and many more prestigious publications.

Photo: https://www.elizabethgabay.com/about/ \\xa0

The wisdom these Liz and Ben have on the subject of ros\\xe9 is vast, and they are so fun, engaging, and real, that they make it all so interesting and accessible. This is an incredible education on ros\\xe9 and will enjoy every minute of listening to these fantastic humans.

Photo: Ben Bernheim, taken by me when we were partners in a Beaumes de Venise mini-class in the Rhone Valley 4/22

Here are the things we discuss in the show:

  • Liz talks about her background and how she got into wine. She discusses how, when she took the MW, it was a professional certification, and how it has changed dramatically over time. She discusses how she got into ros\\xe9, and how Ben got involved in it as well.

Then we get into the nuts and bolts of ros\\xe9

  • Liz and Ben define ros\\xe9 (harder than you think!). We discuss he book\\u2019s intro and what ros\\xe9 is really about:

\\u201cWe love rose\\u0301. We love its diversity, its complexity, and the infinite combinations of terroir, grape variety, vintage variation and winemaking that we find around the world. Many people think we\\u2019re crazy. They see rose\\u0301 as a pale pink lightly alcoholic swimming pool tipple that somehow tastes better if you\\u2019re wearing a bikini. That isn\\u2019t what this book is about. \\u201c

Photo credit: Canva

  • Liz and Ben tell us about ros\\xe9 winegrowing:
    • Grapes that are commonly used(red AND white!)
    • The role of terroir in ros\\xe9
    • The picking decisions and harvest parameters that matter in making ros\\xe9
    • Climate change and how it is affecting grapes for ros\\xe9


  • We talk next about ros\\xe9 winemaking
    • We discuss the various ways to make ros\\xe9 \\u2013 direct press, limited maceration and saign\\xe9e
    • We talk about some of the key factors in ros\\xe9 winemaking:
      • Time on the skin
      • Yeast strains
      • Co-fermenting with whites
      • Fermentation vessel (oak v. stainless)
      • Temperature control in fermentation
      • Malolactic fermentation vs. no MLF
      • Aging/storage vessel and time \\u2013 oak, cement, glass, amphora, etc

Photo credit: Canva\\xa0

  • Liz and Ben tell us why ros\\xe9, can be ageworthy and why most isn\\u2019t.\\xa0We also talk about lightstrike and why clear bottles are the worst thing for ros\\xe9.

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  • We cover the wines of the southern Rh\\xf4ne -- Tavel, Luberon, Ventoux, the ros\\xe9s of Provence and Bandol and the wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon. We have an interesting conversation about Costieres di Nimes, which really drives home how certain regions can be outstanding but if they don\\u2019t send in samples to writers, or market their wines, they remain unknown.

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  • Liz and Ben help us understand how to buy better ros\\xe9.
    • They provide some shortcuts for finding better wines \\u2013 like looking for sub regions in Cotes de Provence such as Ste. Victoire and La Londe.
    • We talk about how using Google maps to see where the winery is located can help you get better wines (e.g., If it\\u2019s in a cool mountain area, it may be crisp, if it\\u2019s nearer the ocean the wine may be fatter).
    • They discuss how essential it is to find out about the producer, since often producers want you to see the name \\u201cProvence\\u201d and buy the bottle\\u2026if you poke around a bit you may get a better idea about what you are getting so it\\u2019s not a surprise or disappointment

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  • Liz and Ben tell us about the trends in ros\\xe9 \\u2013 why it has become so popular, and what are great regions we should keep an eye on. Liz\\u2019s recommendations for countries/regions that have been making intresteing ros\\xe9 (besides France!): Austria, Greece, Sicily (Etna especially), Spain (Clarete from Sigales, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Navarra), Portugal (Douro, pink Port), Israel.

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We end with a conversation on the future of ros\\xe9 and what Ben and Liz hope for the category.

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This is a fantastic conversation about a category of wine that is experiencing a big paradigm shift. Liz and Ben are some of the most normal, kindest, smartest people I\\u2019ve met in wine in a long, long while and the show is sprinkled with a ton of industry information \\u2013 insider things that can help shed light on what goes on with producers, negociants, and writers. \\xa0I hope you enjoy and you are motivated to buy their wonderful book! Reach out to them at https://www.elizabethgabay.com/about/ \\xa0

Photo credit: Canva

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