Ep 423: Interesting things about the Rhone Valley that you won't read in books

Published: April 26, 2022, 3:31 a.m.

b'

This podcast was recorded after my trip to the D\\xe9couvertes en Vall\\xe9e du Rh\\xf4ne, a wine trade fair that I was invited to by Inter-Rh\\xf4ne. It was a wonderful learning experience and I stayed on for a few days afterwards to explore Hermitage, C\\xf4te R\\xf4tie, Condrieu, St. Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, and in the south, Beaumes de Venise with Claude Chabran of Rhon\\xe9a, Gigondas with Elisa Cheron from Familie Cheron of Domaine du Grand Montmirail,\\xa0and a self-guided tour of vineyards in Ch\\xe2teauneuf-du-Pape. It was a fantastic trip and I am grateful to the people at Inter-Rhone for the opportunity.

Photo: D\\xe9couvertes en Vall\\xe9e du Rh\\xf4ne at Palais des Papes in Avignon,\\xa0Elizabeth Schneider, Wine For Normal People

\\xa0

If you are curious about some of the people I mention as partners in crime in the show:

  • Matt Walls, Rh\\xf4ne expert, Decanter\\u2019s Rh\\xf4ne contributor, author of Wines of the Rh\\xf4ne
  • Adam Lechmere, editor of Club Oenologique and prominent wine writer
  • Elizabeth \\u201cLiz\\u201d Gabay, MW \\u2013 Ros\\xe9 goddess (and the world\\u2019s foremost ros\\xe9 expert)
  • Jamie Goode of Wine Anorak and author or several books
  • Also, not mentioned by name (with apologies, but MC Ice had me thinking of Brits \\u2013 these guys are fantastic), Kurtis Kolt, a great writer and consultant from Vancouver, Canada and Gurvinder Bhatia, Editor-in-Chief of Quench magazine

Photo: The Rh\\xf4ne in Bloom! by Elizabeth Schneider, Wine For Normal People

\\xa0

  1. C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne percentages are PLANTINGS, not blend percentages in C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne wines. So if the requirement is 40% Grenache for a C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne, that is how much Grenache must be plantedin a vineyard for C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne, not how much has to be in the blend. Case in point: I had a 99% Syrah that was a Village wine.

\\xa0

  1. The producer is a big part of whether you like a wine or not, but you should still learn region before you learn producer. Producer can make or break your experience. It\\u2019s hard to learn but once you understand what the region has to offer, the next step is finding the producers you like.

Great producers: Familie Cheron of Domaine du Grand Montmirail, Gigondas

\\xa0

  1. About white grapes in ros\\xe9 wine\\u2026it\\u2019s a-ok! I mentioned Elizabeth \\u201cLiz\\u201d Gabay, MW \\u2013 goddess of pink wine and her son Ben. Look them up. White wines are allowed to be used in ros\\xe9 as long as those grapes are fermented with the juice from red grapes. Whites Clairette, Picpoul, and Bouboulenc are used to lighten up one of my absolute favorite ros\\xe9s, the Rh\\xf4ne cru, Tavel.

\\xa0

  1. Roussanne grows really well in the southern Rh\\xf4ne and there is more of it than ever before. The is distinctive when you taste it in a blend and there are more whites from C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne and the Villages planting and growing this awesome grape to make it a bigger part of blends. Check out the pod we did on this wonderful grape.

\\xa0

  1. Clairette is another a grape that no one talks about it but is awesome \\u2013 acidic, refreshing, can be like Sauvignon Blanc, lighter style Rieslings, zippy, and green fruit notes. It is used in large proportions in C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne blanc from the south.

\\xa0

  1. Cairanne, the cru of the southern Rh\\xf4ne, is light on its feet and a completely different wine than the rest of the cru. Because of the larger proportion of Cinsault, the lighter soils, the Mistral wind, and the terroir, the wines have a lighter touch than many of the other southern Rh\\xf4ne cru. Cairanne makes pretty and elegant wine still with great fruit.

\\xa0

  1. An important point from the trip: Please STOP SENDING ME COMMENTS ABOUT MY FRENCH.Even when I tried to say names of regions and wines, I was not understood by folks in the Rh\\xf4ne or other parts of the south. It often took Google translate to communicate. If I tried to pronounce things in French it would have a terrible effect \\u2013 neither French speakers nor English speakers would understand me and it would be futile. WFNP is an English language podcast and I need to pronounce things so that English language speakers (most of whom speak no French) understand what wines and regions I am saying so they can seek these wines out. After this trip, I will no longer be answering these comments and if you find that offensive, you can feel free to turn off the show. I\\u2019m sorry to see you go, but I\\u2019m no longer going to be apologetic for anglicizing French.

Photo: Dentelles du Montmirail in Gigondas, by\\xa0Elizabeth Schneider, Wine For Normal People

\\xa0

  1. Gigondas is NOT a baby Ch\\xe2teauneuf-du-Pape, in my opinion. Some is very tannic and harsh, some is just beautiful but it is all about skill and terroir. The best producers aren\\u2019t trying to mimic Ch\\xe2teauneuf-du-Pape. They are their own expression of mainly Grenache in a hot, mistral effected areas of the Dentelles du Montmirail. Moulin de la Gardette and Domaine de Longue Toque are exquisite examples of terroir-driven Gigondas wines that are not trying to emulate Ch\\xe2teauneuf-du-Pape.

Photo: Condrieu, by Elizabeth Schneider, Wine For Normal People

  1. Condrieu has a lot more to it than you may think.
    • First, it has two different parts, In the north where the wines are almost Sauvignon Blanc like \\u2013 herbal, lime-like, lightly floral (jasmine) with higher acidity and a lighter body. In the south the wines are more like a traditional Viognier \\u2013 peachy, sweet lemon, apricot notes with a fuller body but still with more acidity than New World Viognier
    • Condrieu has some rows of vines that, because of the undulation of the hills, face north or northeast. These north facing rows are not considered Condrieu and are declassified into IGP Viognier, according to Aurelien Chirat from Vignoble Chirat.
    • Finally, whole bunch fermentation can be used to add texture to wines but also to dilute or absorb alcohol. The stems have water in them that will dilute alcohol, they also can absorb some of the alcohol into their wood.

Aurelien Chirat of Vignoble Chirat in Condrieu

  1. Most winemakers use outside labs as required by the AOC laws. There is use of technology as a check on the health of the wine, but analysis is not a decision making tool unless there is a problem. This is a very different philosophical bent than the New World.


Photo, C\\xf4te R\\xf4tie, by Elizabeth Schneider,\\xa0Wine For Normal People\\xa0

  1. Two things on C\\xf4te R\\xf4tie\\u2026
    • Despite what I have heard and read in recent times, C\\xf4te R\\xf4tie has have Viognier in it \\u2013 I didn\\u2019t find a producer who made a wine without at least a little. Most had 3-5% Viognier in their Syrah wine. The only wines that didn\\u2019t have Syrah were special old vine plots or from designated vineyards, from which the winemakers wanted to showcase the Syrah for that particular wine.
    • The plateau of C\\xf4te R\\xf4tie has high quality, even though wine people malign it. I loved some of the wines from there \\u2013 they are softer and easier to drink younger. Some of the wines smelled like manure and carnations \\u2013 there are several theories as to why, which we discuss in the show.

\\xa0

Photo: Hermitage, by Elizabeth Schneider,\\xa0Wine For Normal People\\xa0

  1. A few things on the very small appellation of Hermitage
    • Books say producers are permitted to blend in Marsanne and Roussanne into the Syrah. That is true, but there isn\\u2019t one producer who is doing that. The style is 100% Syrah and although that is for flavor, it\\u2019s also because producers need white grapes for the white wine of Hermitage, which represents 30% of what is grown and made.
    • If you haven\\u2019t had a white Hermitage, that should be your next investment! This is rare wine and it\\u2019s a bargain for how little there is in the world.

\\xa0

  1. Crozes-Hermitage has two parts around the base of the hill of Hermitage each makes different wine styles. The northern side is on uniform granite. This is the old part of the appellation before it was expanded many times into southern flatter areas after World War II. Crozes Hermitage makes 50% of all the wine of the northern Rhone and the flat, southern part is less expensive than any other part of the Rhone, so younger producers have a chance to move in and get established. This is a good thing, even if it means the wine can be variable.

Photo: St.Joseph, by Elizabeth Schneider,\\xa0Wine For Normal People\\xa0

  1. St. Joseph is a tannic wine and it is not similar to Crozes-Hermitage, as many books will tell you.The appellation is varied, with many different types of granite (it really should be broken up into pieces). Although the wines from farther north are a little softer, I found them to be so harsh in tannin I could barely drink them. The verdict is out on if they will mellow with time, but to drink the young wine was nearly impossible for me. If you love harsh tannin, this is your wine.

\\xa0

  1. Ch\\xe2teauneuf-du-Pape is bigger than the entire northern Rhone combined. It is VERY varied in terroir, farming, and quality, so caveat emptor!

\\xa0

\\xa0

There are a million other little tidbits woven into this show. If you want to explore Rh\\xf4ne beyond study guides and generalizations, this show will get you far in understanding how different reality is from what may be published in books.

\\xa0

I hope you enjoy our \\u201cmyth-busters, Rh\\xf4ne edition\\u201d!

___________________________________________________

Thanks to our sponsors this week:


Our sponsor: Wine Spies!

Wine Spies uncovers incredible wines at unreal prices - on big names or boutique brands from all over the world at up to 75% off! It\\u2019s not a club and there\\u2019s no obligation to buy. They have a build-a-case option, so you can mix and match wines while enjoying free shipping on every purchase. Visit www.winespies.com/normal you\\u2019ll get $20 credit to use on your first order! Check them out today!

If you think our podcast is worth the price of a bottle or two of wine a year, please become a member of Patreon... you\'ll get even more great content, live interactions and classes!\\xa0

www.patreon.com/winefornormalpeople

\\xa0

To register for an AWESOME, LIVE WFNP class with Elizabeth go to:\\xa0www.winefornormalpeople.com/classes

'