Ep 351: Severine Schlumberger of Domaine Schlumberger and the very French side of Alsace

Published: Nov. 16, 2020, 10:30 p.m.

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S\\xe9verine Schlumberger joins us for the third installment of our mini-tour of Alsace (first installment was Ep 343). To provide a counterpoint to Phillippe Blanck of Domaine Paul Blanck (Ep 250), the Schlumberger family is more devoutly French in attitude and S\\xe9verine tells us a different story of her family\\u2019s heritage, attitudes, and how Domaine Schlumberger developed and grew to become one of the largest family-owned domaines in Alsace.

Founded by Nicolas Schlumberger in 1810, Domaine Schlumberger produces all estate-bottled wines from southern Alsace. The Schlumberger vineyards are among the largest in Alsace, and one of the largest blocks of contiguous vineyards in all of France. The Schlumberger domains operate and vinify 140 ha/346 acres of vines, half of which are spread over 4 Grands Crus, which have been in the family since 1810 -- Kitterl\\xe9, Kessler, Saering and Spiegel. The vineyard is sustainably managed, 30 ha is biodynamically farmed, and the Domaine is working on organic certification for the whole property.

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S\\xe9verine Schlumberger, co-owner of the Domaine, is part of the 7th generation running the estate. Here are the show notes:

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First we tackle history, as it is so essential in Alsace\\u2026

  • S\\xe9verine tells us about her family history in Alsace. She discusses how her family came from Germany to Guebwiller and how their family grew in size and diversified from wine to textiles, finance and oil in a network that stretched from Alsace, to Paris, to the United States. S\\xe9verine paints a picture of a family who very much considered themselves French and defied German occupation each time it occurred in the 19th and 20th

  • I ask S\\xe9verine if she finds that her family was particularly egalitarian because the prestige cuv\\xe9es are named after the women: Christine, Anne, and Clarisse. In her very matter-of-fact, brass tacks style, S\\xe9verine tells us that her family was actually quite sexist, and that the women either needed to die or become very old to even be considered important in the domaine! I love the honesty!

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  • We speak briefly about Michel Schlumberger in Sonoma, which a distant relative of S\\xe9verine\\u2019s established and then sold. In case you were wondering, there is no close tie between the wineries and wasn\\u2019t even before the sale to a holding company.

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Next we address the estate:

  • The Domaine is located on steep, dry, infertile hills with slopes of up to 50% gradient and at an altitude ranging from 820- 1280 ft/250 - 390 meters. It\\u2019s in the Haut-Rhin area of Alsace (the south), which is dry and considered top quality.

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  • S\\xe9verine talks about how much of the Grand Cru grapes go into the basic tier, \\u201cLes Princes Abb\\xe9s\\u201d wines. The wines aren\\u2019t mature for 15 years and the basic wines are essential for introducing wine drinkers to the world of Alsace, so they get special care.

  • We discuss the new classification system that is proposed (it would be like Burgundy\\u2019s system) and some of the qualms S\\xe9verine has with it. Then we discuss the standardization of a sweetness scale of the wines, tradition styles of Alsace, the use of very limited oak, and how climate change has affected the wines.

Finally, S\\xe9verine tells us her wish for the future: that Alsace wines become as popular on wine lists and in shops as Bordeaux or Rh\\xf4ne, and that wine lovers recognize that every white wine style made exists is in Alsace and is readily available.

I\\u2019m doing my part in drinking Alsace, I hope you are too!

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My favorite quote from the show...

\\u201cFor me the luxury of a wine producers is not to drive a Ferrari or to dress Chanel, it\\u2019s to be able to skip a wine if the vintage is not good enough, and that\\u2019s exactly what we\\u2019re doing\\u2026and the only reason we can do that is because we are family owned. If you belong to a big financial group, it\\u2019s over\\u201d
(32:15)

*All photos from https://www.domaines-schlumberger.com\\xa0

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