Ep 348: The Maconnais of Burgundy

Published: Oct. 27, 2020, 3:04 a.m.

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The M\\xe2connais is the southernmost area of Burgundy, known for excellent Chardonnay. Although it\'s often overshadowed by the other parts of Burgundy and only given credit for AOC Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9, this picturesque and historic Chardonnay-dominated region has some of exciting appellations you should seek out to see what M\\xe2con is capable of (hint: a lot, at great prices to boot!)


Source: Vins de Bourgogne

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Here are the show notes:\\xa0

M\\xe2con location:

  • The M\\xe2connais is located between the C\\xf4te Chalonnaise and Beaujolais in Burgundy. It is a transitional area between the north and south of France, where the climate starts to warm a bit, and plusher, fuller styles of wine are possible.
  • The vineyards are on a long strip between two valleys split by the Sa\\xf4ne River in the east as it flows south to meet the Rh\\xf4ne and Grosne River in the west.
  • The M\\xe2connais has 3,345.82 ha/8,268 acres of vineyard over rolling hills that intersperse with pastures, orchards and other agriculture.
  • Chardonnay represents 80% of all vines planted in the region. Reds are made of Gamay and Pinot Noir. M\\xe2con covers wines of white, red, and ros\\xe9.

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History

  • Vines have been here since Gallo-Roman times but viticulture took off with the Abbey of Cluny, a Benedictine monastery founded in AD 910. These monks were dedicated to viticulture and were responsible for spreading it all over Europe: The order of monks from Cluny at its height had 20,000 monks in 2,000 dependent monasteries from Portugal to Poland. In response to the success of Cluny, the Cistercian Abbey of C\\xeeteau, equally influential in wine, began in 1098.The monastic influence lasted through 15th -16th centuries, but as that tradition waned, so did the demand for wines from the homeland at Cluny in the M\\xe2connais.
  • Historically reds were favored for wine (there is a lot of Gamay, since M\\xe2con was not part of the Duchy of Burgundy and hence it was never outlawed to grow it here as it was farther north), but whites began to increase in popularity after phylloxera in the 1870s. Still, even in 1952, over 60% of the wine was red

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M\\xe2con Location/Land

  • The M\\xe2con is separated by a series of parallel faults, many vineyards like on north/north-westerly or south/south-easterly exposure. To the southwest of the town of Tournus,there are little valleys that are great for vines. To the south the hills open to an area that has two rocky outcrops, the most important being Vergisson and Solutr\\xe9 \\u2013 the lower slopes of these rocky peaks is the best area in the M\\xe2con. Soils range from limestone to flinty clay with sandstone pebbles, and schist. This is a sunny area with warm summers and a risk of spring frosts.

Source: Vins de Bourgogne

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The Appellations\\xa0

M\\xe2con Appellation

  • This broad appellation makes red, white, and ros\\xe9 from anywhere in the M\\xe2connais. The main grapes are Chardonnay for white, and Gamay and Pinot Noir for the reds and ros\\xe9s, although most of the Pinot Noir is used for general AOC Bourgogne rouge. Lots of other regional wines are sourced from here \\u2013 Cr\\xe9mant, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains and Bourgogne Aligot\\xe9. Since many wines classify for the higher specificity M\\xe2con-Villages, the M\\xe2con appellation is used far less. They are easy drinkers -- the white is Chardonnay, red Gamay and Pinot Noir.

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Macon-Villages

  • If a wine is harvested within a specific commune, producers can use the word Villages on the label. The best comes from a delimited region of dozens of villages in the southern section of the M\\xe2con \\u2013 from the town of Chardonnay down to the border with Beaujolais.
  • The limited amount of red is mainly Gamay and is fruity, violet scented, and fill. The reds are simple and easy to drink. The ros\\xe9s have similar flavors to the reds, but are acidic yet mouth filling. M\\xe2con Villages Blanc are reliable Chardonnays with good acidity and honeysuckle, apple, and some grassy/shrubby notes. Like everything in the M\\xe2connais, the flavors will vary based on village/terroir and the winemaker.
  • A higher and more reliable version of M\\xe2con-Villages is M\\xe2con plus the name of the village. These include:
    • Lugny, Mancey, Milly, Lamartine, P\\xe9ronne, Pierreclos, Priss\\xe9, La Roche-Vineuse, Serri\\xe8res, Saint-Gengoux-le-National, Verz\\xe9.
    • Best villages are usually Lugny or Priss\\xe9
  • A lot of wine sold to big merchants. Good producers: Joseph Drouhin, Louis Latour, Verget

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Pouilly Fuiss\\xe9

  • AOC Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9 was created in 1936. It was well known as an excellent collection of sites and regulators chose land for the appellation that was covered in the best soil -- clay with limestone base. It was decided that there would be no Premier Crus and there are none to this day.
  • Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9 is a large appellation: 1,871 acres of vineyard land, which yield about 400,000 cases per year. Located between the cliffs of Solutr\\xe9 and Vergisson lie the villages: Solutr\\xe9-Pouilly, Fuiss\\xe9, Vergisson and Chaintr\\xe9. They vary in rainfall, climate, altitude but the best vines grow on lower slopes of the two cliffs, where sun exposure and diurnals are ideal. Slopes face east and southeast and some are northwest facing and rise to altitudes of 200m/650 ft to 300m/984 ft.
  • The wines range greatly in this appellation both because of varied terroir, and because of diverse winemaking techniques. The best is known to be a little smoky not from oak, but from terroir. The Chardonnays can range in flavor \\u2013 those aged in stainless steel or concrete egg are like apple, citrus, and peach with good acidity. If oak aged and quite ripe, they may be more like honey, pineapple, nuts, and butter. In bad examples, the oak overcomes the fruit. Some are ull and rich in flavor and soft in texture, and can have alcohol levels exceeding 14% ABV.

Top Producers: Olivier Merlin, Jean Rijckaert, Chateau Fuiss\\xe9, Verget


Source: Vins de Bourgogne, BIVB / Michel JOLY

\\xa0Pouilly-Loch\\xe9

  • One of the smallest of appellations Bourgogne in terms of land, this is an historic area with an east-facing hillside overlooking the Sa\\xf4ne. There are some older soils north of the village of Loch\\xe9 with schist and sandstone, and in the south there is heavier, mineral rich soil. Although these Chardonnay-based wines are floral and peachy, and can be acidic and refreshing, the quality and flavor varies because the terroir varies so much.

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Pouilly-Vinzelles

  • This appellations shares an East-facing slope with Chaintr\\xe9 (in Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9 appellation) and is near the big rock of Solutr\\xe9. Much like Pouilly-Loch\\xe9, soils vary \\u2013 so the wine will taste different depending on whether the vines are planted on upper or lower slopes. They are similar to those of Pouilly-Loch\\xe9, but can take on fuller brioche and almond notes if from those heavier soil types and if oak aged. Older wines (5+years) can even gain mushroom and earth notes.

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Saint-V\\xe9ran AOC: A top appellation and a great value

  • Gaining its AOC in 1971, Saint-V\\xe9ran forms a belt around Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9. It is 1,590 acres, slightly smaller than Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9, which splits Saint-V\\xe9ran into two areas, both of which lie on the slopes of the rock of Solutr\\xe9. The old fossilized limestone soils on the west side create lighter wines than those on the eastern slopes, which are made up of marly limestone, clay, and flint. Lower in altitude than others, with some flat areas, parts of Saint-V\\xe9ran overlap Beaujolais, particularly St. Amour (a cru of Beaujolais), which usually uses the Saint-V\\xe9ran appellation for its whites.
  • These wines are acidic with smoke, white flower, peach, pear, and pineapple aromas and flavors. Oak can make the wine a bit nutty nuttiness. These wines are a bit zippier than those of Pouilly-Fuiss\\xe9

Top Producers: \\xa0La Soufrandiere, Domaine Cordier

Source: Vins de Bourgogne,BIVB / Aur\\xe9lien IBANEZ

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Vir\\xe9-Cless\\xe9 - High quality appellation

  • A high-quality appellation formed from the top two of the M\\xe2con-Villages, Vir\\xe9 and Cless\\xe9, this appellation is a baby \\u2013 it was created in 1999. With limestone hills and chalky clay soils, these vines grow on hills and include white wines of Chardonnay only. The wines range from smoky and balsamic to citrusy, herbal, minty, and acidic. There can be oak treatment on the wines, which can add notes of nuts and butter, but these are generally acidic, great value Chardonnay (good ones start under US$20).

Top Producers: Domaine de la Bongran, Domaine Andre Bonhomme, Domaine des Heritiers, Chanson

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Source: Vins de Bourgogne, BIVB / www.armellephotographe.com

Here is a great video on the M\\xe2connais from Vins de Bourgogne

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