Ep 287: The Grape Miniseries -- Chenin Blanc

Published: July 30, 2019, 3:41 a.m.

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In this episode of the Grape Miniseries, we discuss Pineau de la Loire, a.k.a, Chenin Blanc! This white grape is one of the most versatile in terms of wine styles it can make \\u2013 from floral sparkling, to stunning dry and off dry versions to unctuous dessert wines. Chenin is underrated, not always treated with regard, but it has a pedigree and a class that can\\u2019t be doubted. After hearing about all it has to offer, you\\u2019ll want to run out and get a bottle ASAP!

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Here are the show notes:

What Is Chenin Blanc?

  • It\\u2019s a high acid, white grape that makes everything from sparkling to dessert wines. When it\\u2019s grown poorly, it\\u2019s a boring neutral grape that\\u2019s used for its acidity but when grown in the right places, it can create a wine with great depth, character
  • DNA: Chenin is related to Jura\\u2019s Savagnin \\u2013 parent + unknown grape
  • French grape scientist \\u2013 Pierre Galet \\u2013 Chenin Blanc started in Anjou in the 9thc, moved to Touraine by the 15thc
  • 1520 \\u2013 1535 -- Grapes planted at Mount Chenin in Touraine by the Lord of Chateaux de Chenonceau and the Abbot of Cormery

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Flavors of Chenin

  • Chenin can express terroir, winemaker ideas, vintage but at its core it has a floral, mineral, honey note. Its nuances are determined by terroir, soil type and style
  • With botrytis the wine is like peaches, honey, apricots, marzipan, quince
  • Dry or off-dry from Loire: apple, chalk that turn into honey and quince \\u2013 off dry can age
  • New World, especially South Africa: tropical fruit notes, good acidity

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Viticulture:

  • Need ripeness and good control over its vigor to get depth and complexity
  • New clonal research is being done to delay budding because the grape is prone to spring frost, increase sugar development
  • Vintage variation: growers decide on a day by day basis what style and dryness of Chenin blanc they could make

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Winemaking

  • New World: Can be blended or do well alone, some skin contact to get different aroma, soften with malolactic, lees contact, tropical notes bc of cooler temps of fermentation
  • Old World \\u2013 fermentation temps \\u2013 higher (60-68\\u02daf. 16-20\\u02dac) so they won\\u2019t get those tropical fruit flavors that come out with cooler temps (50\\u02da/10\\u02daC) \\u2013 no new oak/toastiness
  • Loire:Made like German white wines \\u2013 low, slow fermentations in large old oak or stainless steel, no malolactic fermentation, no\\xa0barriques

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Wine regions

Loire, France\\xa0

  • Sweet appellations:Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, Vouvray
  • Dry:Savienni\\xe8res (Nicolas Joly) \\u2013 concentration, flavor, longevity, climate change has made dry wine possible in most areas \\u2013 although some is off-dry, tryig to become a Grand Cru of the Loire
  • Range of sweetness levels, from dry to semi-sweet to sweet: Anjou, Cr\\xe9mant de Loire, Coteaux de l\'Aubance, Jasni\\xe8res, Montlouis, Saumur, and Vouvray
  • Varied:Saumur, Vouvray, Anjou \\u2013Vouvray
  • Moelleux wines:Sweet but can be artificially sweetened, so you need a good producer \\u2013 Vouvray and Quarts de Chaume the best
  • Demi sec: great acidity, with a touch of sugar sometimes seem dry b/c of the acidity

Languedoc: Cr\\xe9mant de Limoux, Chenin must account for at least 20% and up to 40% of the blend with\\xa0Mauzac, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

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South Africa

  • Most in Western Cape:\\xa0Stellebosch, Paarl and then Swartland, Olifants River
  • Good acidity in a hot climate
  • Swartland Top Producers: Badenhorst, Mullineux, Eben Sadie (blends
  • Stellebosch Top Producers: Ken Forrester, De Morgenzon

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United States

  • California: Used it for jug wine because it had acidity, irrigated to the hilt \\u2013 high yields, 4x as high as in Loire
    • Clarksburg AVA plus, Chappellet in Napa, Leo Steen in Sonoma/Santa Ynez, Foxen in Santa Barbara
  • Washington: Yakima
  • Texas High Plains (a few hundred)
  • Long Island, New York: Paumanok

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Other wine regions: Australia,New Zealand, Argentina blended with Chardonnay, Mexico and Canada, and India and Thailand grow it too!

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