Ep 234: The Greats -- Barbaresco and Barolo

Published: June 3, 2018, 3:12 a.m.

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This week: The Greats Barolo and Barbaresco of Piedmont, Italy. These two wines are both 100% Nebbiolo, and are fragrant, tannic, acidic, and outstanding. We cover the similarities and key differences between these greats and why each is a force in its own right.

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Here are some key show notes:\\xa0

Barolo

  • King of Wines and Wine of Kings
  • Production Zone in Province of Cuneo: Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d\\u2019Alba, parts of Cherasco, Diano d\\u2019Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d\\u2019Alba, Novello, Roddi, Verduno
  • Production must be on hillsides: no valley floors or humid, flat areas nothing with northern exposure \\u2013 mandated by 2010 law\\xa0
  • The soils and mesoclimates vary slightly, subtle differences but also winemaking plays a big role
  • Until mid 19thc Barolo was SWEET --\\xa01835, Paolo Francesco Staglieno published a winemaking manual about how to make wine stable for transport \\u2013 fermenting dry was one of the ways.

The Barolo wars:\\xa0Traditionalist v Modern\\xa0

  • Modern: \\u201cinternational style\\u201d fermentation is 10 days (less tannin), age wine in new French oak barriques (smaller, more oak flavor). Very different flavors \\u2013 fruitier, more new oak, doesn\\u2019t age as well. May illegally put in Barbera, Cab, Syrah\\u2026 unproven as of yet
  • Modernists producers: Elio Altare, Domenico Clerico, Robero Voerzio, Angelo Gaja, Renato Ratti\\xa0

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  • Traditionalist:\\xa0Extended maceration, long cask aging, less fruit requires age and patience.
  • Traditional producers: Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Giuseppe Mascarello, Capellano, Marcarini, and\\xa0Giuseppe Rinaldi\\xa0

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Barolo wine aromas/flavors:

  • Classic: light in color, smells like tar and roses, very aromatic \\u2013 dried fruit, mint, leather, licorice, plum, tobacco, herbs, truffles
  • Standard Barolo must be aged for\\xa0three years\\xa0\\u2014 two in cask and one in bottle.\\xa0
  • Riserva: Aged for\\xa0five years\\xa0upon release \\u2014 three in cask and two in bottle.
  • Barolo Chinato -- digestif

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BARBARESCO

  • Barbaresco -- immediately to the east of\\xa0Alba \\u2013 communes of Barbaresco, Trieso, Neive plus part of San Rocco Seno d\'Elvio
  • Vineyards on Tanaro river, go up northeast of Alba, closer to the river (the Tanaro), with higher fertility in the soil
  • Slight maritime climate \\u2013 warmer, drier, milder than Barolo
  • Barbaresco\\xa0Communes:
  • Barbaresco:
    • 45% of Barbaresco production, largest wineries\\xa0
    • light in color and body, well structured and aromatic.
    • Best cru:\\xa0Asili,\\xa0Martinenga,\\xa0Montefico, Montestefano\\xa0and\\xa0Rabaj\\xe0\\xa0
  • Neive:
    • 31% of Barbaresco\'s production
    • Powerful and tannic expressions of Barbaresco if closer to the commune of Barbaresco, to the east, more sand, lighter wines
    • Albesani, Santo Stefano, Bricco di Neive, Gallina
  • Treiso
    • South of Barbaresco, highest altitude sites in the area, constant breezes, great diurnals
    • lightest in body, perfumed, higher acidity
    • Pajor\\xe8\\xa0is best site
  • San Rocco Seno d\'Elvio: floral with finesse

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Barbaresco History

  • Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco was founded in 1896 by\\xa0Domizio Cavazza: he died early in 1915, not until the late 1950s that Barbaresco was reignited -- with Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja leading the way
  • Local parish priest, Don Fiorino Marengo, founded Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative cellar, the best co-op in Europe

Wines

  • Grapes ripen earlier, less tannic, need less aging
  • Aromatic \\u2013 spicy, perfumed, floral with rose and violet, cherry, truffles, licorice, fennel, leather tar
  • Normale: 2 years of aging, 1 in wood
  • Riserva: four years of gaining, two in wood\\xa0

Best producers and vineyards:\\xa0Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Ceretto, Produttori del Barbaresco, Roana, La Spinetta, Rizzi, Marchesi di Gresy, Punset\\xa0

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BAROLO V BARBARESCO:

  • Size: Barbaresco is smaller and more consistent
  • Altitude: Barolo is higher than Barbaresco
  • Weather: Barbaresco gets less rain and bad weather.
  • Tannins: Barbaresco is better at an earlier age and lighter body than Barolo. Barolo is a better bet to hold for long periods.
  • Soils:\\xa0in Barbaresco, the roots of the vines do not have to go as deep as with the thinner soils found in many parts of the Barolo zone -- less aggressive tannins for many Barbaresco.

\\xa0On or the other is\\xa0NOT BETTER: they are DIFFERENT\\xa0

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Addendum: the Cru of the regions

Barolo

Barolo:

  • Bricco Viole
  • Brunate
  • Cannubi
  • Cannubi Boschis
  • Rue
  • San Lorenzo
  • Sarmassa
  • Via Nuova

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La Morra:

  • Arborina
  • Brunate
  • Cereguio
  • Gattera
  • Giachini
  • Marcenasco
  • Rocche dell\\u2019Annunziata

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Castiglione Falletto:

  • Bricco Rocche
  • Fiasc
  • Mariondino
  • Monprivato
  • Parussi
  • Pira
  • Rivera
  • Villero

Monforte d\\u2019Alba

  • Bussia
  • Cicala
  • Colonnello
  • Dardi
  • Ginestra
  • Mosconi
  • Munie
  • Romirasco
  • Santo Stefano

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Serralunga d\\u2019Alba

  • Falletto
  • Francia
  • La Serra
  • Marenca
  • Marenca-Rivette
  • Margheria
  • Ornato
  • Parafada
  • Vigna Rionda

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Barberesco\\xa0

Barbaresco\\u2019s Cru:

  • *Asili
  • Ca\' Grossa
  • Cars
  • Cavanna
  • Cole
  • Faset
  • *Martinenga
  • Montaribaldi
  • Montefico
  • Montestefano
  • Muncagota
  • Ovello
  • Paj\\xe9
  • Pora
  • *Rabaj\\xe0
  • Rabaj\\xe0-Bas
  • Rio Sordo
  • Roccalini
  • Roncaglie
  • Roncagliette
  • Ronchi
  • Secondine
  • Tre Stelle
  • Trifolera
  • Vicenziana

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Nieve\'s Cru\'s

  • Albesani
  • Balluri
  • Basarin
  • Bordini
  • Bric Micca
  • Bricco di Neive
  • Canova
  • Cott\\xe0
  • Curr\\xe0
  • Fausoni
  • Gaia Principe
  • Gallina
  • Marcorino
  • Rivetti
  • San Cristoforo
  • San Giuliano
  • Serraboella
  • Serracapelli
  • Serragrilli
  • Starderi

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Treiso\'s Best Cru\'s

  • *Pajor\\xe8
  • Ausario
  • Bernadot
  • Bricco di Treiso
  • Casot
  • Castellizzano
  • Ferrere
  • Garassino
  • Giacone
  • Giacosa
  • Manzola
  • Marcarini
  • Meruzzano
  • Montersino
  • Nervo
  • Rizzi
  • Rocche Massalupo
  • Rombone
  • San Stunet
  • Valeirano
  • Vallegrande

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The Cru of Barolo...

Barolo:

  • Bricco Viole
  • Brunate
  • Cannubi
  • Cannubi Boschis
  • Rue
  • San Lorenzo
  • Sarmassa
  • Via Nuova

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La Morra:

  • Arborina
  • Brunate
  • Cereguio
  • Gattera
  • Giachini
  • Marcenasco
  • Rocche dell\\u2019Annunziata

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Castiglione Falletto:

  • Bricco Rocche
  • Fiasc
  • Mariondino
  • Monprivato
  • Parussi
  • Pira
  • Rivera
  • Villero

Monforte d\\u2019Alba

  • Bussia
  • Cicala
  • Colonnello
  • Dardi
  • Ginestra
  • Mosconi
  • Munie
  • Romirasco
  • Santo Stefano

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Serralunga d\\u2019Alba

  • Falletto
  • Francia
  • La Serra
  • Marenca
  • Marenca-Rivette
  • Margheria
  • Ornato
  • Parafada
  • Vigna Rionda
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