Ep 232: Loire's Central Vineyards (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume and more!)

Published: May 19, 2018, 4 p.m.

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It\'s a small part of the wine world but one you should know: the Central Vineyards of the Loire Valley, which include Sancerre, Pouilly-Fum\\xe9, Menetou-Salon & others. Great Sauvignon Blanc, up and coming Pinot Noir, and fantastic ros\\xe9. History, soils and dorkiness abound in this podcast, which will make your mouth water and have you running out to get these wines ASAP!\\xa0

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The Central Loire Vineyards: Overview

  • In the center of the Loire Valley, in the heart of France.
  • All of the Central Vineyard appellations are within 80 kilometres (50 miles) of center of France
  • Continental climate with decent rainfall

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Appellations

Sancerre

  • White, red, and ros\\xe9
  • 3 main types of soil in the two appellations:
    • Limestone (known locally as caillottes) \\u2013 vines planted on white rock\\xa0
    • Kimmeridgean terres blanches (clay limestone)
    • Silex (flint)\\xa0
    • In Sancerre, the caillottes and terres blanches account for 40% each and silex accounts for 20% of vineyard soils
  • Often steepest vineyards best: Bu\\xe9, Chavignol, Champtin
  • Producers: Alphonse Mellot, Domaines Fouassier and Vacheron, Lucien Crochet

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Pouilly-Fum\\xe9 and Pouilly-sur-Loire \\u2013

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  • Pouilly-Fum\\xe9 only Sauvignon Blanc
  • Pouilly-sur-Loire only Chasselas
  • Soils -- similar to Sancerre
  • Producers:\\xa0Alexandre Bain,\\xa0Domaine Didier Dagueneau, Ladoucette

Difference between Pouilly and Sancerre:

  1. Sancerre is a more cohesive appellation, \\xa0Pouilly has no clear centre \\u2013 not touristy
  2. Sancerre has strong leading producers: Alphonse Mellot, Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Denis Vacheron and others, to promote the appellation.
    Pouilly \\u2013 no cohesion: the late Didier Dagueneau attacked lax practices of his fellow producers. Ladoucette is largest producer is Pouilly -- is an international businessman based in Paris
  3. Pouilly has been lower quality than Sancerre in recent years. Shows promise but Sancerre is better quality and reliable

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Menetou-Salon

  • Southwest of Sancerre:\\xa0More gently rolling than that of Sancerre
  • Vineyards more dispersed than Pouilly and Sancerre, more variable\\xa0
  • Revival going on now
  • Producers:\\xa0Pierre and Isabelle Cl\\xe9ment, Domaine du Chatenoy,\\xa0Domaine Philippe Gilbert

\\xa0Quincy

  • All Sauvignon Blanc
  • First appellation created in Loire
  • Flattest of the areas, prone to hail\\xa0

Reuilly\\xa0

  • Dry, crisp Sauv Blanc with some Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris for red and dry ros\\xe9
  • Slightly better than Quincy

Coteaux du Giennois\\xa0

  • Vines are close to the Loire, mostly on its eastern bank
  • Light-bodied, fruity and crisp, dry Sauvignon Blanc
  • Reds have to be PN and Gamay blend \\u2013 not good
  • Dry ros\\xe9 good\\xa0
  • The limestone soil is \\xa0flinty.

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Ch\\xe2teaumeillant \\u2013 only 1% exported,

  • Although included in the Central Loire, Ch\\xe2teaumeillant is apart from the rest - in the northern foothills of the Massif Central
  • Granitic soil (Granite)
  • Specializes in ros\\xe9 wine known as vin gris, reds from Gamay and Pinot Noir grapes

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