Audio blog 12: Bandol -- RED Wine from Provence

Published: Dec. 14, 2016, 8:12 p.m.

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Sometimes I need a hearty, fruit filled, bone-warming wine to sip on. And when the weather is cool, that\\u2019s often all I\\u2019ll grab. But after I\\u2019ve downed big reds from warm places around the (mostly NEW) world with higher alcohol that will make me feel warm, I\\u2019m left wanting a little something with more complexity. Something that\\u2019s less fruity. A wine that seems hearty but has an element of surprise \\u2013 maybe that hit of terroir or something that keeps on giving me something new with each sip. And that\\u2019s when I grab a Bandol (BAHN-dol), a Mourv\\xe8dre based red wine from Provence in Southern France.

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Amidst the lavender, olives, soaps, and beautifully patterned fabrics oh, and ros\\xe9, there\\u2019s this small, high quality region.

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If you know anything about wine in Provence than you probably associate it with ros\\xe9. And rightfully so: 80% of wine produced here is pink. The market demands it and Provence delivers, in spades. But there\\u2019s more than just those lovely salmon colored beauties here: 15% of the wine from Provence is red and it isn\\u2019t the refreshing, light partner of ros\\xe9. This is big, balls-out stuff mainly from three red wine areas: Cassis, Bellet, and Bandol, with the latter being the only one I\\u2019ve been able to find often in a wine shop in the US.

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Bandol\\u2019s wines are mainly made from the very powerful, luscious Mourv\\xe8dre (moo-VED-rrr) grape. It\\u2019s a plummy, herbal, licorice-flavored, woodsy grape that\\u2019s rarely bottled alone because it is so powerful. Mourv\\xe8dre is so strong that it can\\u2019t be without oak aging to tame its tannins and in the bottle, wines made of it can age for 15 years and may still not be ready!

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Growing in tight little bushes that can stand up to the heavy, ferocious gusts of cold wind that come from northern continental Europe (the Mistral) this tough, muscly grape produces a small amount of potent wine. And because of its power, the grape is mainly used in blends to add a kick to wines that otherwise may lack tannins and brawn (Mourv\\xe8dre is a big component in Ch\\xe2teauneuf-du-Pape, for example, and many C\\xf4tes du Rh\\xf4ne).

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But when it\\u2019s the star of the show, it needs to be tempered so in Bandol, where wines contain a minimum of 50% Mourv\\xe8dre, but can be up to 100%, the grape is usually blended with Grenache and Cinsault, which soften up the bold, tannic, and kind of meaty flavors of the lead grape. Syrah can be used to add depth of flavor (black pepper and other types of herbal notes) and Carignan adds fruit and juiciness and softens the toughness of the Mourv\\xe8dre, which in addition to its strong flavor can be tannic and unforgiving. As an aside, if it\\u2019s listed, the percentage of Mourv\\xe8dre can be a tip off as to how long to hold it before you drink it \\u2013 more Mourv\\xe8dre = more aging.

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History

But let\\u2019s get off the grapes and onto the region, which I think needs\\xa0a dork out moment of its own, since we HAVE TO give props to one of the oldest winemaking regions in France.

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Winemaking started here about 2,600 years ago, most likely when the Phoenicians sailed from modern-day Lebanon and took over the area we now know as Provence. They saw great potential for one of their cash crops here (wine) and likely brought Monastrell from Spain (which is Mourvedre\\u2019s name in the Iberian Peninsula), where their Phoenician brethren had already been making wine for several centuries in a similar climate.\\xa0

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When they arrived in the Gulf of Bandol, we can only guess that they were thrilled. They found the ideal place for vineyards: an area with a natural amphitheater created by mountains on three sides and easy access from the vineyards right out to the Gulf. Cha-ching! They could easily export their wine to far flung places and make cash without much transportation overhead (inland locales like Champagne or Burgundy required a trip down a river or over land\\u2014 why waste the time when Bordeaux and Bandol were basically on the ocean?)

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The Romans agreed with the Phoenician\\u2019s assessment of the wine quality and worked on painstakingly building stone terraces into the mountainside (which are called restanques and are still used today) and they further built the reputation of this small enclave.

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Things trucked along for Bandol, with Louis XV being a famous fan, until the late 1800s when phylloxera hit and nearly all of the vineyards were destroyed.

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But growers in this region weren\\u2019t giving up after that vine murderer came to town. The winegrowing areas were too good for that. They\\u2019d been extolled for millennia, not just for their warm coastal climates, elevation, and sun exposure but for the outstanding, diverse soils that yielded flavorful, bold but still nuanced wines. They used the phylloxera epidemic as a chance to reshape the vineyards and when they applied for their appellation in 1941, Bandol included an elite set of 8 communes that lie exclusively on hillsides and have limestone rich, low fertility, well-drained soils, creating the best wines. In addition, they went back to basics and replanted with a lot of Mourvedre \\u2013 the grape that had fared best here, probably since the time of the Phoenicians.

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Although you\\u2019ll find differences in the wines \\u2013 depending on the exact terroir, the blend used, and the vintage, one thing is true of Bandol \\u2013 I\\u2019ve never had a stinker. The wines always seem to be earthy, herbal, spicy, rich, and tannic and have a sense of place. They frequently taste like tobacco, licorice, and black fruit and some can verge on rustic, with a dusty note. Regardless or nuance, the producers have a dedication to quality in this small area and take the responsibility seriously.

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Bandol is a little pricey \\u2013 you won\\u2019t find one for much less than $25 US. But you get what you pay so if you have a few extra bucks, grab a bottle of Bandol and give it a go. Have food with it \\u2013 something hearty and rich. You\\u2019ll find a new favorite rich red wine that\\u2019s unlike anything else you\\u2019ve tried.

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And don\\u2019t forget to report back on this blog post and let me know what you think: winefornormalpeople.com/blog.

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