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b'This week\\u2019s column is not about a restaurant, exactly, but about a memory. A distinct and painful memory, like a softened tooth you can\\u2019t help but poke at with your tongue to see if it still hurts. A memory of seafood. (That sounds like one of those divine collections, doesn\\u2019t it, like a flight of [\\u2026]\\nLearn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices'