The Three Brethren Jewel

Published: July 8, 2021, 3:54 p.m.

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The Three Brethren jewel (seen on James VI and I hat) was one of the most important jewels of the Middle Ages. Designed as a men's shoulder clasp, the jewel was named for 3 perfectly matched balas rubies, a term that predates gemology meaning red gemstones. In fact these gemstones were red spinels. Ruby and red spinel weren't gemologically differentiated until the 1800's.

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The red spinels weighed about 70 carats each. Indeed, The Three Brethren jewel was a spectacle of large gemstones and also included 4 large pearls, and a 30 carat pyramid-cut blue diamond from India known as the Heart of the Three Brethren.

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The jewel was owned by dukes, kings, queens, and one of the richest men who ever lived, Jacob Fugger. Then in the 1640\\u2019s the jewel disappeared without a trace.

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