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Published: Oct. 22, 2014, 6:50 p.m.

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\nAbout Hans Florine\n

This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes:

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Hans Florine\xa0(born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5]\xa0is an\xa0American\xa0rock climber, who together withAlex Honnold\xa0holds the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of\xa0Yosemite\u2019s\xa0El Capitan\xa0in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), set on June 17, 2012[6]\xa0which broke the previous record of 2:36.45 set by\xa0Dean Potter\xa0and\xa0Sean Leary. Hans also previously held the same record with\xa0Yuji Hirayama\xa0for\xa0El Capitan\xa0in 2:37:05 (2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds), set on October 12, 2008.[2]\xa0This broke their record of 2:43:33 set on July 2, 2008, which had broken the record that was set by the German "Huberbuam",Alexander Huber\xa0and\xa0Thomas Huber.[7]\xa0The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2:45:45, breaking Hans' and Yuji's prior speed record.[8]\xa0El Capitan is traditionally climbed in three to five days.[9]The Nose route is 2,900\xa0ft long (880\xa0m) and features over 31 pitches of strenuous, exposed climbing.[9]\xa0Florine thus climbed The Nose at roughly 6 minutes per pitch. On July 30, 2005, Florine also completed a solo ascent of The Nose in just 11 hours and 41 minutes.[10]\xa0Solo ascents are characterized by climbing by yourself and require one person to do all the work.

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Pretty impressive, huh? I wanted to know how he trained for such crazy shenanigans, and he kindly gave his time for an interview.

\nWhat We Talked About\n

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• His seriously amazing feats as a Yosemite and competition speed climber
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• His badass training sessions in the gym before work
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• How he trains for big walls and speed climbing
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• What he eats before and during big wall speed ascents
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• Whether or not he'll attempt another speed record on the Nose
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• A lot more
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\nRelated Links\n

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• Hans's site at\xa0www.hansflorine.com
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• Hans on\xa0Wikipedia\xa0(he's that good)
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• Hans with Yuji Hirayama on a previous\xa0record speed ascent of the Nose\xa0(VIDEO)
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\nSupport The Podcast\n

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• This podcast is made possible by the\xa0Training Programs\xa0on TrainingBeta.\xa0Check 'em out\xa0if you need some help sending!
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\nListen and Review on iTunes\n

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• Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is\xa0HERE.
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• Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes\xa0here\xa0to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
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\nMusic\n

Intro and outro song:\xa0Yesterday by Build Buildings\xa0

\nPhoto\n

Jim Thornburg

\nThanks for listening!\n

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