Podcasts Sports The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm

TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm

Published: June 2, 2014, 6:26 a.m.

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After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.

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Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before that she was living out of her RV, following the good weather to her favorite bouldering areas. She spent a lot of time this winter in Bishop trying The Swarm, a V13/V14, which we talk about in the interview.

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I've always been a fan of Alex Johnson, and I remember watching her at The Spot competing when she was just a kid really. Her confidence and poise, as well as her incredible strength, have always impressed me.

\nWhat We Talked About\n
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  • Her biggest accomplishments and biggest failures as a climber
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  • Which training styles have worked for her and which have not
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  • What it was like for her to train with the Euros
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  • How she's training for Vail this year (it's a secret so don't tell anyone)
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  • How her diet affects her climbing (if at all)
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  • Whether or not her hard ascents have been downgraded because she's a female
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  • How she balances being friends and fierce competitors with Angie, Puccio and the other girls
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\nMusic\n

Intro and outro song:\xa0Yesterday by Build Buildings\xa0

\nPhoto\n

Portrait of Alex Johnson by\xa0Forest Woodward

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Thanks for listening!