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Emily Monaco\u2019s latest story starts off with a\xa0very\xa0loaded concept, that controversial T word: terroir. This romantic, albeit somewhat undefinable term, has been synonymous with wine\u2014and especially French wine\u2014for generations. But now, as French beer continues to come into its own, the tastes of right here, right now are being emphasized by a number of breweries, but one in particular: Deck & Donohue.

Not that Deck & Donohue would use the word \u201cterroir\u201d to describe its mission. In Emily\u2019s piece \u201cLibert\xe9, \xc9galit\xe9, Authenticit\xe9 \u2014 Deck & Donohue in Paris, France,\u201d which was published on November 24, 2021, she takes a deep and deeply personal look at what makes this opinionated, locally driven brewery tick. Accompanied by a collection of arresting photographs by Eileen Cho, the piece looks at the brewery\u2019s beginning, its goals, and its future as a hyper-local producer of artisanal beers that relies on as many organic and France-sourced ingredients as it possibly can.

In today\u2019s conversation about the piece, Emily reveals her own entry and evolution in beer, and when this particular story began to take shape in her mind. We discuss how French craft beer culture has seen beer evolve from mostly an aperitif to a legitimate beverage to pair with food. We also look at how the history and tradition of winemaking differ from the more forward-looking beer scene, how the United States has influenced French beer (and how it hasn\u2019t), and even where to find the best chai in Paris. But most poignantly of all, she reveals what else she learned in her research for this story, and how it has inspired a number of other stories she hopes to share in the future.