Societe\u2019s Doug Constantiner wants to make beer you can drink a lot of. Not excessively, of course, but consistently.
\n\n\u201cThe holy grail of beer is not the beer that there\u2019s a hundred bottles of, and every 25 bottles were aged in a different barrel,\u201d he says. \u201cThe holy grail of beer is the beer that you can drink every single day. That you can buy on the shelf at the store. And you can have a couple of them every day and not get sick of it.\u201d
\n\nThe terms \u201cdrinkable\u201d and \u201cbalanced\u201d get thrown around often in brewing parlance, but for Constantiner and the team, they\u2019re core principles informing every style of beer they make\u2014from IPA to wild ale to imperial stout. Societe has generally resisted the current trend of fruit and adjunct additions in everything, in favor of building a classic brewery brand respected for thorough execution and timelessness. Fellow brewers have noticed, and two GABF gold medals for their session IPA are validation for the quality in their approach.
\n\nIn this episode, Constantiner gets into the details of these aroma-forward West coast IPAs\u2014pushing malt out of the way while timing additions for better balance of aroma and bitterness, strategically layering hops for complexity despite their \u201coverspiced\u201d nature, building body without malt flavors that get in the way of the hops, and considering unique flavor aspects to hops varieties that can set their beers apart.
\n\n\u201cFor the hoppy stuff, what do we love about hoppy beers?\u201d says Constantiner. \u201cWell it\u2019s the aroma. It\u2019s not the bitterness, which is why we\u2019ve never published our IBUs. The IBU race of the mid-oughts had nothing to do with hoppiness, it was just bitterness. So we just thought \u2018let\u2019s make these hoppy beers as hoppy as we can, and make them a delivery vehicle for that aroma, and get it into your face as quickly as possible, but it has to be balanced too.\u2019\u201d
\n\nWith their wild beers, Societe takes a similar approach to complexity and nuance, eschewing acidity for Brett-driven funk while carefully adjusting variables in their blending stock.
\n\n\u201cCreating acidity is easy. It\u2019s \u2018how do we create this incredibly complex layered beer?\u2019 And I think that\u2019s time, blending, and a lot of experimentation.\u201d
\n\nConstantiner discusses how they pitch cultures, growing each of their lactic acid bacteria and Brett strains separately then timing additions and amounts to achieve specific results. Cell counts, timing, and temperatures all have big effects on the finished beers, and Societe aims to control and understand the variables.
\n\nAt the end of the episode, Constantiner recounts the critical move they made earlier this year, moving from a model of taproom sales and distributed draught beer only to canning.
\n\n\u201cOn Feb 2nd, 100% of our revenue came from on-premise sales,\u201d says Constantiner. \u201cThat\u2019s 8% from our tasting room, and 92% from wholesale. Feb 3rd, we started canning. By the time the shelter in place orders and restaurants were shut down in California, we were at about 84% on-premise.\u201d
\n\nA couple months later, the brewery\u2019s production is at full speed, brewing at a higher volume than 2019, with new tanks on the way to support more production.
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